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Portofino & Cinque Terre

Portofino's quiet harbor and the five stacked villages of the Cinque Terre — cliffs terraced into vineyards, houses painted every shade of citrus, and a coastline built for swimming off the rocks. Two weeks chasing the light between Riomaggiore's boats and Vernazza's castle tower.

A terraced cliff path above a turquoise cove in Riomaggiore, swimmers below and boats moored offshore
The cliff path above Riomaggiore's swimming cove
A tall red harborfront building with green shutters and white trim, two people walking near its doors
A Riomaggiore facade, red against a white cornice
Orange life vests hanging to dry on a railing at a small harbor, boats moored beyond
Life vests drying at Riomaggiore's little marina
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Sunbathers spread across flat cliffside rocks above turquoise water, swimmers and small boats nearby
Sunbathers claim the rocks at Riomaggiore's cove
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A family lounges on rocks while a man floats in an inflatable ring in clear green water, seen from above
An afternoon float, watched from the rocks above
A swimmer mid-leap off a cliff into Riomaggiore's harbor, other swimmers and moored boats in the water below
A leap off the rocks into Riomaggiore's harbor
A narrow Riviera street lined with peach and yellow buildings, shuttered windows and wrought-iron balconies
Afternoon light down a side street in Santa Margherita
A bundled towel and sandals left on a sunlit rock beside clear water
Sandals left on the rocks while everyone swims
Striped cabana loungers and umbrellas on a wooden deck built out over teal water
Cabanas over the water at Paraggi, just below Portofino
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A scooter blurs past a building wall entirely covered in green ivy
A scooter blurs past a wall gone entirely to ivy
Two nuns pause on a promenade before Portofino's yellow baroque church, San Giorgio
Nuns pause on the path above Portofino, San Giorgio behind them
A shaded stone loggia with potted plants opens onto a green garden through arched doorways
Stepping out of a shaded loggia into a Ligurian garden
Portofino's rooftops seen through trees, a church tower and pink villa above the harbor
Portofino's rooftops and church tower above the harbor
The bow of a wooden boat named Portufin, moored in Portofino's piazza-side harbor
The little boat that says it all, moored in Portofino's harbor
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Swimmers in a turquoise cove beside cliffside dining tables and chairs set for lunch
A quiet cove east of Portofino, chairs set for lunch by the water
Portofino's harbor and wooded hillside framed through the stone arches of a loggia
Portofino's harbor, framed by the arches of Castello Brown
Pastel houses of a hillside fishing village stacked above a harbor, wooded slopes behind
Camogli's pastel houses, stacked toward the sea
A clock tower and church rise above fishing boats moored in Camogli's harbor
The clock tower keeping time over Camogli's fishing boats
Close-up of two wooden fishing boat bows painted with the names Giola and Marina, hulls touching
A boat named Marina, moored among Camogli's working fleet
A blue vintage vending cart with an awning sits along a promenade beside a man in a towel
A blue vending cart, waiting out the afternoon on the promenade
Diners on a cliffside terrace at dusk above Vernazza, two women sitting on the rocks below
A cliffside table catches the last light above Vernazza
Striped umbrellas on a stone terrace beneath Vernazza's Doria Castle
Striped umbrellas below the Doria Castle in Vernazza
Vernazza's colorful buildings and stone watchtower above a harbor full of swimmers
Vernazza's tower and rooftops, the harbor full of swimmers
A sunbather lies on a beach towel on the rocks, reading a newspaper, one leg raised
A newspaper and bare feet, the whole afternoon's agenda
A wooden dinghy pulled up onto a sandy beach, cliffs of the Cinque Terre coastline behind
A dinghy hauled onto Monterosso's beach, the coast behind it
A green shutter thrown open against a bright watermelon-pink stucco wall
A green shutter against a wall the color of watermelon
Laundry strung across a balcony against a terracotta-colored building, green shutters behind
Laundry strung across a Corniglia balcony, drying in the sea air
A shop cat perched among fruit crates as a girl crouches to look at baskets of melons and tomatoes
A shop cat keeps watch over the melons at a village market stall
Terraced vineyards climbing a steep cliff above the sea, the Cinque Terre coastline curving into the distance
The terraced vineyards that hold the Cinque Terre's hillsides together
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A farm stand loaded with fruit and vegetables under a grapevine trellis, the sea visible beyond an umbrella
A farm stand under the vines, the sea just past the umbrella
Looking straight up through the ribs of a red and green striped beach umbrella against blue sky
Looking straight up through the last umbrella of the trip
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